#Holley sniper efi what more do you need manual#
#Holley sniper efi what more do you need full#
#Holley sniper efi what more do you need plus#

I have two ports, one on each side of the t-stat housing, one was being used by a heater hose and the other was being covered up by the radiator hose. It put a nice smile back on my face.Дo you have a stock intake or aftermarket one? Are you sure you only have one port on your manifold? I had the same issues trying to find a place for my coolant sensor. It continued to pull like it never has before. So I decided to lay in to it for some WOT learning. I was able to get out a 6 lane country road with a long stretch with no cars. This by far has been the best it has ever run on the top end. I'm sure it probably needs more drive time but I don't know that these issues will get fixed on their own through just self learning.ДЄs a side note, I've owned this car for just over 31 years and it's had the same motor for approximately 30 of those years.

#Holley sniper efi what more do you need plus#

When I initially start it up it doesn't start as soon as I think it should plus when it does start the idle is fairly high (~1,300 RPM) for about 2 - 3 seconds and then it settles down to closer to what I have set.Д«TW: my hot idle is set at 650 but it still stays around 680 - 700 RPM. It didn't seem to affect it either way.Дў. It was initially set as 4.0 but I then changed it to 2.0 and then down to 1.0. From what I understood from that was the time that it took to go back down to idle.

#Holley sniper efi what more do you need manual#

I then read through some of the touch screen manual and saw where it talked about an IAC Decay. I but a slightly stiffer throttle return spring on it trying to make sure that wasn't the issue. It stays around 1,800 RPM until I whip the throttle. When switching through gears (it's a manual trans) or coming up to a stop light/sign, the idle stays high. There will be some tweaking I need to do but here are the two things I need to address first if anyone has any suggestions.ДЎ. I was able to get the idle down and get the car out on the road.

What sucks is I had planned to use the Holley to control ALL nitrous functions, including timing retard, and now that's not going to be an option, evidently. Set total timing at 44 degrees, and good to go again.Very pissed about this.ДЄnyway, hooked up sans Timing Control, the efi works, and car runs, great.

#Holley sniper efi what more do you need full#

Idle was smoother, but extended idling or light throttle cruise, my car would randomly die, IAC would go full open, and act as if key was shut off, and engine restarted.ДЄfter this happening AGAIN about 10 times yesterday.I decided to AGAIN switch the EFI back to NON Timing Control, and AGAIN the car runs 100% fine like that, with no stalling whatsoever.I removed distributor, reinstalled the weights, springs, 11 degree advance bushing, and vacuum can. Timing parameters set as close as possible to previous mechanical/vacuum settings that have been proven over the last few years. Inductive Delay set to allow timing match and steady reading Reference Angle set 10 degrees above highest timing commanded Holley required tuning parameter changes done.Дistributor/Computer Timing matched at all RPMs. Since the Sniper datalogs are inaccessible until they finally release their software, there's nothing to check. I had done everything that the Holley manual said to do, and done the other things that were never even mentioned and still have a random, loss of power, which caused an intermittent stalling with no pattern to it whatsoever.

I've also 100% POSITIVELY found that mine has an issue regarding running Timing Control. It won't start to learn until it's at 160 degrees, as measured by the Holley supplied coolant temp sensor.I had to change mine to an aftermarket one since mine read upwards of 20 degrees lower than actual.and since it's gotten much colder, mine was reading in the 150's so not learning at all. Just double check ALL 'needed' parameters that you have ser and entered, then once fully warm, set IAC with the idle screw, and drive it. I would not adjust or play around with ANYTHING until you've given it some actual driving time to learn.